ClubGP - Car Care

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Car Care
by Chris Johnson, updated 10/06/97

Meguiar's is one of the more popular waxes. It's widely available, widely trusted, and has gotten good reviews.

When you get your new car, you might want to wait before polishing/waxing. The main reason is a clear coat needs time to "harden". This can take between 60 and 90 days after application. So check your build date and then wait a little while. You may want the car to be as shiny as possible, but sometimes you're better safe than sorry. You may even want to tell your dealer not to prep the car or touch the paint before delivery. Dealers always deny that a clear coat requires time to harden, but most body shop guys will tell you otherwise.

Meguiar's Products:

Note that this is not an advertisement for Meguiar's products. It's simply based on experience. And just like religion, someone will always feel theirs is better. But this info is for education purposes only. Use whatever wax you like. As for Meguiar's, it markets it's products in three lines:

1. Regular line

comes in maroon/red colored bottles
3-step system: 1. cleanser 2. polish 3. wax
very generic, much like most other brands of wax

2. Mirror Glaze line

comes in tan colored bottles
over 20 different types of cleaners, polishes, waxes, etc.
number (#) on each bottle makes them easier to identify
professional product, much more specific in application

3. Medallion line

comes in nice black bottles and black boxes
Higher caliber as the Mirror Glaze line
3-step process: cleaner, polish, and wax.
This is the best of the best and runs about $20 a bottle
Reccomended for show cars

If you're looking for a quality results while spending a moderate amount of time and minimal amount of money, then the Regular line is the way to go. Buy all three steps (separate bottles for about $4 each) and go to town. If you need instant gratification and results and don't mind spending a little to get it, then the Medallion line is for you. You'll spend about $14 for a bottle of the stuff and probably only need a couple of hours to have the car looking great. But for someone who knows the importance of protecting the paint and who doesn't mind putting half a day or more into getting the best results possible, then the Mirror Glaze line is the real deal. As mentioned, there are about 20 different specific Mirror Glaze products, each with it's own purpose:

What to Buy:
The numbering system is random, it doesn't mean they have to be used in any particular order, nor do you want to use all of them. Each has a specific purpose and the cost is based on the product, anywhere from $4 a bottle to $10 a bottle. But whether you're car is daily driver or a weekend/trip car, for regular care, you only need 4 of them:

(#00) Car Wash
(#9) - liquid version onlyPolish/Glaze
(#7) - liquid version onlyYellow Carnauba Wax
(#2) - liquid or paste

In addition to the products, you will also need:

NOT

Cleaning Tips:

Swirl Marks Swirl marks result from micro scratches on the finish oftencaused by the use of a buffer with the wrong type of polishing pad and/or wax/polish. Hand applications that appear to leave swirl marks (especially on dark colors) are often just smudges or streaks from faulty application technique or inferior wax/polish.

If you use an orbital buffer, I recommend that you only use the orbital variety, since an orbital buffer runs in an eccentric motion that greatly reduces swirling. There also is less danger of the orbital buffer scratching the paint than with rotary buffers.

If you have light swirls, you can use one of the Cleaner/Waxes or Swirl Removers to safely restore the finish. If you have deep swirls, you will probably have to first use a safe paint cleaner and then follow with a pure polish and then a protective wax. If this process won't remove the swirl marks, you will need to take your car to a local professional to see if the scratches are so deep that painting or other work is needed.

Light smudges and smears caused by hand applications can often be eliminated by following waxing with an application of Meguiar's Quik Detailer or Final Inspection. These mist-and-wipe touch-up products easily remove minor surface imperfections.

Dont Use Baby Diapers! Believe it or not, your choice of toweling can make a big difference. I know that alot of you are convinced that soft, smooth toweling like cloth diapers are the safest option. The problem is that you will always encounter microscopic particulates on the surface of your car...and these particulates become trapped between your paint finish and your towel. And when smooth diapers are used, these particulates have no where to go, so they are pressed into the finish and forced to slide across it...each one leaving a fine scratch. Then the problem is compounded by the ability of smooth toweling to quickly apply and wipe off polishes and waxes without your adding downward hand pressure, which forces these particulates even deeper into the finish.

I have yet to find anything to work better than 100% cotton terry cloth toweling...the deeper the pile the better. Because the pile provides a buffer zone where particulates can accumulate without being impressed against the paint finish. And the nap of the terry cloth towel pulls product off the surface faster, requiring less downward hand pressure and, frankly, less overall effort, while your saving time.

10 Easy Cleaning Tips

1. Household detergents, including dishwashing detergent and laundry soap, should never be used to wash cars. Their high pH content designed to cut grease will remove your car's wax coating and harm its clear-coat finish. Use specially formulated car wash treatments instead.

2. Rinse your car before washing it. Caught under your sponge or towel, dirt and grit can scratch the paint.

3. To clean leather, wipe with a damp cloth and buff dry. Follow up with a good leather conditioner. Never apply silicone dressings to leather. If a more thorough cleaning is needed, see a professional for service to avoid damaging the leather.

4. Beware of acid rain from industrial fallout. It's harmful effects can be activated by dew or fog, as well as rain. Rinse and dry your vehicle often to prevent acid rain damage.

5. Be kind to your car. Avoid car washes using nylon brushes or recycled water. Brushes can scratch your paint, and recycled water may contain salt and other contaminants from previous vehicles that can accelerate deterioration.

6. It's gross, I know, but clean off bird droppings, bug stains and tree sap as soon as possible. For best results, use a mild car wash soap, then rinse and chamois dry to avoid staining and discoloration.

7. Touch up chips and scratches promptly. Chipped or scratched paint can cause blisters and surface rust.

8. Moisturize your vinyls. Interior and exterior vinyls should be cleaned and dressed at least twice a year to prevent drying and cracking. Use a cleaner specifically recommended for vinyl, then buff dry and apply a temporary vinyl dressing, such as Armor-All.

9. Don't use Brillo-style pads on those wheel covers or aluminum wheels. Abrasive pads are made for cleaning pots and pans, not the delicate finish of your wheels. Aluminum or magnesium sports wheels have a clear-coat finish, which can strip away if not treated properly. Use a non-caustic cleaner and soft brush or sponge.

10. Remove bumper stickers and window decals gently. Use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Then scrape clean with an old credit card. If your bumper is painted, keep the heat source low to prevent damage.

Tire and Wheel Cleaning Tips

Clean and shiny wheels can really make a vehicle look spectacular. If they're grungy, your wheels -- and tires -- tend to make an otherwise well maintained vehicle look downright dowdy. But beyond appearance, why is it necessary to go beyond a regular wash for your wheels and tires?

The big culprit is brake dust. Every time you jam the pedal to the metal, you make dust -- or rather the binding agents in the brake pad compound create an electrolytic action with aluminum alloy wheels. Regardless of how you explain it, this dust discolors and will eventually eat through the wheel's finish, creating nasty, permanent pits and craters. Brake dust also affects the appearance of tires, making them look dull and lifeless. (I know, I'm starting to sound like a hair stylist.)

Regular car wash soaps are not always powerful enough to remove the dreaded brake dust. For really tough brake dust build-up, use a specialized brake dust removal product. For more routine jobs, use a wheel cleaner followed by a tire cleaner.

So which do you clean first, your tires or your wheels? It's a debate that's right up there in importance with the "which way do you hang the toilet paper?" quandary, but we recommend doing the wheels first, simply because it's easier to keep tire cleaners off the wheels than wheel cleaners off the tires.

Make sure you clean your wheels when they are dry and cool to prevent streaking and staining. As a precaution, test the cleaner on an inconspicuous spot to make sure you're not going to scratch or damage the wheel. Most cleaners are easy to use: just spray on and rinse off. Use a brush with soft plastic -- not metal -- bristles on the stubborn spots.

Quick Cleaning Tip: Clean one wheel at a time. Don't run around the vehicle trying to keep each wheel at the same stage of cleaning -- cleaners shouldn't be allowed to dry, or remain on the wheels any longer than the instructions state.